Saturday, August 21, 2010

General Fashion & Textile


As an NGO,GIFT short term part time designing education.
By Prof.Khalid Ameer Rafique
GIFT General Fashion & Textile
After learning at NID for five and a half years under the UG Textile Design course I later went on to learn Apparel design for NID Apparel (Fashion) Faculty development program under the guidance of FIT New York Faculty as well as NID faculty, then worked continuously on repute as a senior Designer as well as Design Manager at Arvind Mills- Ahmedabad, Jayashree Textile, Rishria – Kolkata, Raymond mills – Thane, Gujarat spinners – Amletha, various spinning unit, weaving and printing unit, textile handicrafts, handloom sector, ethnic saree development at Dharmavaram, flooring unit, and few garment manufacturing industries in India as well as two years continued painting as a fine arts artist and the end result was my first show at Hutheesing Art Gallery Ahmedabad followed by the one at Taj Art Gallery, Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai and simultaneously taught as a visiting faculty at NID, for two years regular faculty at NID and since October 1995 onwards, as a GIFT senior faculty, Managing Trustee and Managing Director of all educational affairs.
All the above mentioned experience and expertise of Prof. Khalid Ameer Rafique is not enough to dictate the total Fashion and Textile of the world by knowledge as well as practice. Fashion and Textile is like the seven oceans of the world and the total mystery of that is difficult to discover by any single person. That means there is no point in claiming to be a master of the above mentioned said.
The role of a designer in Fashion and Textile industry is technically not only designing fabric by weaving and ornamentation by various methods and processes such as dyeing, printing, embossing, etc but according to Prof. Khalid designing begins from an idea and the purpose served for what it is needed by the client or industrial production. This may involve various aspects of requirements of raw material, appropriate facility for manufacturing, processing, finishing, packaging, costing and many more.
The above mentioned understanding reflects a designer’s versatile basic knowledge, for instance, from fibre to end product. It is a difficult task to design textile or garment as per appropriate needs otherwise it is a tough situation to survive in the field of Fashion and Textile design.
Simply as a designer, you cannot deny or reject the above mentioned saying because in this competitive world of professionalism, communication facilities are available at one’s finger tips.
A brief detail to understand the above statement in a better way is as follows:
Textile fibre and Spinning
Textile fibre and its blending with other fibre with an acceptance in a versatile meaning such as dyeing and spinning is seen, for making finer to coarser yarn with an appropriate spinning system , creating a fancy look in yarn technically by dyeing or spinning, slub yarn in various style and count for the final spinning, through different twists such as “S” and “Z” or highly twisted gas yarn, mercerised yarn, hang dye, cone dye and limitless explorations for the above mentioned developments for developing versatile yarns and fabrics of various meanings and utility from fine fabric to canvas or may be industrial fabric is done. That shows if a practitioner designer possesses the above knowledge, he/she can perform miracles while developing a designer fabric.
Textile Weaving
Generally one can count the weaving structure and construction of textile weave at one’s finger tips. Even then the subject of weaving is so vast that no human mind can reach its totality.
When basics are less, then, its permutation and combination, derivatives through imperial methods become unaccountable. This shows that one can carry on developing woven design and can lead his or her entire life in the field of weaving.
There is no doubt that if we praise and write about the God Almighty with all the seven seas as ink and made into the kalam (pen) from all the trees of the world, the writer will be exhausted of writing but the writing tools will not. That shows God has created, earth’s Paradise where humans can keep on discovering from one thing to its endless derivatives and if that mission cannot be completed by any means then one should not be disheartened. This is the way God has created everything.
For example, if we talk about plain weave, that itself has unaccountable development in its world which has very less shaft on loom to use and weave. That means by the virtue of God Almighty, human mind can develop unimaginable things like the sorcerers magic in weaving. And if we have more shafts to manipulate weaving then imagine what wonderful textiles the designers will be able to create.
The above understanding is just the beginning step to enter into the field of woven design. Then think of it, if you live with it and continue developing new things, the mission of development will never get exhausted in the designer’s life.
Textile Printing
As mentioned above textile fibre, spinning, weaving, etc. it is again the same story about printing for ornamenting textile surfaces through versatile processes and methods appropriately which is again a huge subject that one can keep developing and history itself shows that there is no end to this.
The above understanding doesn’t need any explanation and justification for its subject of textile printing.
Again, I must say that one can count the processes and methods on their finger tips but its exploration, permutation and combination and derivatives of printing are uncountable, because it simply varies from fabric to fabric as well as the freedom of expression in printing process with possibilities are technically limitless. If you carry on reading the history about such textiles with minute details, I think reading will never end and one will get exhausted about designing. That shows our human society has developed unimaginable textile from time to time. So why to worry, be a part of that like Prof. Khalid! The above understanding and meaning reflects a size which is bigger than any human mind and its resource center. So without getting disheartened while knowing the truth, one should carry on developing such textiles joyfully!
Fashion Garment (Apparel)
Garment is a basic need for humans like, food and its vice-versa for our society to live with it in appropriate status which is again difficult to learn in totality in one’s life.
Garment industry is not less either. Converting fibre to yarn, yarn to fabric and it’s processing, shows how much is pouring into the garment industries for its utility which leads to even more challenging jobs for designers to convert fibre into garment. So, one cannot take such designing industries lightly.
If we study the history, we can easily get lost in the depth of garment style and design of different eras and its transformation from beginning to the present scenario of garment industry globally. No doubt, garment designing is a very unique subject which is next to human liking, where anybody can reject a designer for its development according to their liking and disliking. For this reason, Apparel Designing (Fashion Garment) is more challenging than any other professions.
If we see the garment industry on black and white contrast, it makes us understand that the basics of garment are more important for human comfort, fitting and ergonomically with its gist rather than a versatile name of the garment historically. That means all designers should have sound knowledge where the basics of their subject should be clear. This is the way Prof. Khalid thinks the way he does and GIFT teaches.
Now-a-days various design institutes create jargons of basic garment and its learning to make the learners more confused. I think it is not right according to my opinion because basic to any subject is the root from where everything starts. And in fashion its further development moulds into the character of ethnic, western and style of casual, formal, classic and its fusions.
It may sound simple and easy but practically it is not so, because, we are dealing with human dimension. The garment style is moulded appropriately as needed with accuracy of textile with the help of the above understanding. For example, in India the saree blouse is the toughest garment that fits next to the body, creating ergonomically total comfort and grace.
Designing a Basque blouse and its attitude for creating delicate beauty in garment needs various variation and derivatives flawlessly for Indian women which brings in feelings and emotions. But Indian tailors find it difficult to create and make such above mentioned saree blouse. However, at GIFT it is just a 5 minute job to teach a learner, that is why GIFT teaches 70 basic Tailor made garment in a short span with the learner’s measurement. Then, how can one deny the learning at GIFT which exists by the grace of God Almighty.
The above mentioned is one such basic garment which has so many manipulations, permutations, combinations and derivatives with its cut, darts, neck styles, etc then think about hundreds of such various garments. It is not a small field to be learnt easily but at GIFT it is made easy and simple.
Garment industry is not a small industry. It includes all types of garments for routine wear, formal wear, purposeful wear, like party wear, picnic wear, school uniforms, etc., industrial garments, uniforms, protection garments from heat, rain and frost, etc. and many different styles. Then one should think about such a profession which is not an easy job. But at GIFT, it is simplified and can be learnt easily by every individual learner with the grace of God Almighty as well as from GIFT’s faculty.
The above understanding of various stages of development in textile and fashion makes a designer’s mind more perfect and accurate in the field of designing. To achieve the above development a designer’s skills, logic, idea and mind is very much essential to fulfill the world’s need of textile, fashion and garment. For that GIFT’s foundation and common learning along with various appropriate course content makes the task easier for such practices.
In general, one should not feel that textile, fashion and garment designing is a child’s play. But it is a much bigger and wider field that includes amazingly versatile character of our human society which is the heart and soul for the above subject. These are the following characteristics of the above mentioned text:
Emotions, feeling, moods, gestures, Inspiration, nature, forms, skills logic, ideas, sentimental, sensitive, delicacy, immortal, skillful, excellent, pious, good, bold, gentle, graceful, beauty, original, charismatic, charming, expert, tactile, rapid, continuity, virtue, strength, ability, noble, aim, liberty, intellect, graffiti, honesty, modesty, truthful, simplicity, ethos and muthos, empirical, which means GIFT covers minute details for each subject which is taught individually. Then one should think about GIFT learner’s strength which is more suitable for the designing world.
How to learn Fashion Designing with specialization through short term (in 6 months part time) at GIFT is given in detail as follows
Why GIFT teaches differently and better to the fresh learner?
It is very easy for others to teach an Apparel Design package more or less commonly but certainly skillfully that includes learning about textile, garment pattern cutting and its making through flat pattern and draping, along with drawing, fashion illustration, conceptualization according to its theme work, theories and few presentations, discussions etc. With this the task is completed of teaching Apparel Design.
But at GIFT, Fashion (Apparel) Design is full of emotions, feelings, care, which travel to understand from person to person their attitudes, their living, outing, temperament, gathering, cultural and social activities of every individual living with gestures with a capacity of their personal collection.
This is to present themselves with different outfits and fashion Accessories which shows the depth of the above possessed wealth which reflects that person’s heart and soul for his own Fashion style to represent himself appropriately in human society carrying his abilities smartly with himself as per his or her social status correlating to the above understanding.
To teach and preach Apparel Fashion along with its style subjectively with heart and soul at GIFT is very easy. If we carry on teaching with a certain aspect of understanding from our versatile human society of varying segments that would explain as follows:
Routine Fashion (Actual Fashion)
  • Every person living in our society without a doubt and practice their own living as per their liking, moods etc which is a clear mirror image of their gesture of Fashion which reflects in their daily lives.
Benefitial Fashion
  • There are people who are under the impression about their beliefs who carry along with them their reality of living. This way their belief is certainly bound to turn into their trends of Fashion towards life.
Fashion Image
  • Sometimes Fashion for a certain section of people is sheer stubbornness due to the greed they possess within themselves. These people seldom change their style for any cause or up gradation as per their life style which later becomes their identity which is their fashion image.
Classic Fashion
  • There are those who remain intact with a monotonous kind of classic living and their outfits are very much appropriate to that. Due to such a style, one can say it is classic Fashion because they are normally not accepted by human tendencies who always look for new styles. This practice has neither hindrance nor any hesitation for any designer to design such Apparel.
Off-Beat Fashion
  • There are certain people who do not believe nor have a strong character to possess any style personally to draw others attention to themselves hence it is very easy for them to change frequently their style of living and their pattern of Fashion. Their presence in public has both characteristics which is either noticed or not noticed by others. A gesture for such people always give rise to offbeat Fashion which means that their frequency of change in their outfit makes them very bold and the reflection of their style sometimes is appreciable and vice versa. Such people are the carriers of innovative ideas and hold a strong segment in the human society of the above mentioned profession.
Unshaken Fashion & Ritual Fashion
  • There are people who remain with their cultural (ritual) of ethnic styles with a classic touch. Their attitude is certainly gracious and prestigious reflecting the beauty of antique social norms and etiquettes of our human society. Such people are noticed to be snobbish in nature because they keep enough breathing space between themselves and others. “What can we call such people’s fashion?” Certainly could be snobbish. Classic, ethnic or probably unshaken fashion.
Freaked and Master of Fashion
  • Some are those who never bother about social norms and status. their character is usually very strong and have no hindrance and hesitations to copy other’s outfits that easily. They are freaked with the rapid change of the outfit style and also talk very sportingly about themselves in relation to the change which they have copied. These could be certainly said to be very bold people and a master of Fashion.
Oldies & Parental Fashion
  • Then come people like grandparents who show that once the person has lived his or her own life for years then it becomes their own duty to carry the family responsibilities on their shoulder. This is why they start living with one classic style of outfit and this parental style brings them high regard and respect. It might be a western or an ethnic gesture of outfit which could be sometimes called the “oldies fashion” which is simple and classic but still recalled and recognized by most individuals under the expressions like “Oh! That’s my mummy’s style” or “That’s my mum’s style” and so on.
True Classic Fashion
  • The people who look like they have been trained under a military type discipline with a code of conduct and outfit is like a uniform for all purposes. They are very disciplined and classic and their representation towards human society reflects living on code of conduct. For them there are special designs and they could be certainly called true classics.
Status Fashion
  • Some are true believers of show business who always prefer branded items who consciously or subconsciously jump from one brand to another frequently in order to maintain their social status which can be termed as status fashion.
Excellent Classic Fashion
  • There are people who are very selective and even reject brands. Their outfit s are usually delivered at their doorstep and they do not normally go for shopping. Such people dictate excellent classic Fashion and this is only practiced by such higher class people.
Highness Classic Fashion
  • Fashion and class – these kind of people are generally very rich or have unaccountable wealth equivalent to Kings and Queens of the olden era. Their outfits are custom made from fiber to end product to suit their status which usually requires a big team of designers. This is termed as Highness classic Fashion.
Humorous Fashion
  • This segment and people have no choices about their outfit. It all depends on the buying capacity which frequently varies from expensive to cheap and then to reasonable in terms of price. They are very smart people even though they have borrowed the outfit from somebody, they enhance it by using the mix and match technique while choosing what to wear. These people are also noticed by others and are called to have no choice fashion.
The above statements make us understand with minute detail of the history from past to the present scenario of fashion globally in relation to the versatility of human society and professionally of Apparel Design.
Due to the possession of such knowledge each individual learner at GIFT NGO is groomed and moulded with authority for future practice in the field of Fashion Design.
The above understanding is miraculously a sorcerer’s for various segments of human society, which helps to have an idea on conceptualization of appropriate outfit on any individual through a tailor made garment style.
The above mentioned for versatile liking of different human society helps in creating designs but it is not that easy because it is related with the liking and living standards of people due to that this profession is the toughest globally due to rejections.
That is why Gandhi GIFT is now globally a known design institute because of its strong teaching on basics without hypocrisy, duplication, copying and fooling others where designing is concerned.
In this diplomatic world where truth has lost its glory, trueness of people has vanished, where hypocrisy, justification, and reasoning is now in practice, insecurity has crept into the human society because of foolish acts, certainly loosing peace and calmness from the people’s heart and soul.
Another factor is due to the show off attitude of “I am the best” which shows that the human mind is not relaxed and calm today for any human cause and often looses his patience.
The above understanding of human society by growth and pattern of human living is degrading their morale and deteriorating it day by day. Due to this, respect for others has vanished. There is hatred and prejudice prevailing with hypocrisy all around where nobody is bothered to reach others in any relation by heart and soul. Greed of humans has become limitless and a possessive attitude for worldly things is increasing. To teach such people is not an easy task.
Economic growth pattern is always up trend not because of the total development of the human society by all means but due to the human wants and needs that is increasing day by day, which is actually not growth but basically a down trend. Due to the above statement natural resources are vanishing from the earthly paradise which is a big threat to global warming. For such greed the sky is never the limit.
Taking the above understanding into consideration many years back, Prof. K.A.Rafique has developed an idea of a design institute where only learning is the prime concern. This is why things like diplomacy which distorts the relationships with regards to others growth is absent at GIFT. Hence after a decade, GIFT is known globally and referred in other known design institutes, management institutions with a high regard and reputation as in the case of study and education, that we know through friends.
GIFT style of teaching and functioning is based on humanity where nobody is great and everybody is a learner without any hindrance or hesitation to share the weaknesses and learn with transparency fearlessly by the grace of God Almighty.
From the above practice, GIFT is functioning since Oct 1995 according to its goodness to the students. Inspite of GIFT being an NGO it may be preferably lesser as compared to other institutes due to lesser space and funds but GIFT is able to provide all learning facilities by the virtue of God Almighty.
I myself Prof. Khalid.A.Rafique preaches and teaches designing with heart and soul, with nobility and thorough humanity but still feels like the greatest beggar on this earth by all means mainly to fulfill his mission as well as living which he accepts proudly for himself.
There is no doubt about the fact that it is very difficult for the people of this earth’s paradise to accept the above mentioned text. According to Prof.Khalid, those who have taken birth by virtue of God Almighty are all born beggars. To understand that there are a few good examples mentioned. Mostly when people kneel down or bow themselves in prayer for their ritual practice in front of God due to their beliefs in return they often ask uncountable and merciful favors of worldly goods which lies only between the person and God Almighty.
Every human living gesture is based on favoritism which is in other words begging. To understand this any industrialist who manufactures versatile things for various market segments to reach with his products to the users needs to be understood. Firstly he looks for raw materials as per their requirement, as a better deal and lower priced good, appropriate for his survival. On introducing his product in the market for the end user return is gained in terms of money with the help of various sources like keeping a few managers for its recovery, for which sometimes true skills are needed for his own begging.
Normally you may have heard people asking “may I beg a favour of you?” that can be for forgiveness or a merciful attitude and in any case where justice is also begging and nowadays students who really want to learn desperately find ways in the form of a favour from their teacher very cleverly which is also a sort of begging.
The above text shows that most people of this earth are less able to live in this world and in order to fit in they use versatile methods to live the life as per their likes and dislikes through begging.
You may have heard quite often phrases like “May I beg of you to drop me there” while traveling towards the same direction.
The above statement shows that the human mind always looks for favoritism. There is nothing wrong in that because without begging there is nobody to make a donation in any possible manner for any cause.
By birth every human has been taught the art of begging and bowing down in prayer by God himself.
In this basis how can one deny that they are not beggars because begging is a kind of art? One should learn from versatile segments of people for your own good cause, like the untrue and true politicians prevailing everywhere whose begging and claiming is vice versa. Another example – industrialists asking for favors according to government norms for survival of industries, admissions in schools and colleges, and many more such examples.
Certainly begging humanly makes the world more beautiful. For example we have unaccountable schools, colleges, dharamshalas, musafir khanas, lakes, ponds, planted trees, good public playgrounds for kids and paths for common use that helps in upgrading the society and this utility has no end towards a united living..
“Why don’t people think in this direction?”
Simply because they are beggars who donot have the acceptance power, as a result of which nothing has happened in the level of the past of the above such mentioned phrases.
That is why; I, Prof. Khalid feel that I am the biggest beggar of this earth and am not shy for such an acceptance, but certainly have gained a higher regard and respect towards life socially in the human society which till today nobody has denied in my surrounding.
We are looking for funds to rebuild GIFT like a fresh learner of the design subject for designing an element of paradise. Therefore I put forth my request on humanitarian grounds to come forward and help such people, for those who are having by the grace of god almighty a healthy life with abundance by all means.
We heard and read while surfing the internet that there are thousands of people helping for such a cause such as Bill Gates, Ford foundation, Muslim Khams Fund Trust, sometimes World Bank and UNDP etc.
But their pattern of reaching people is not simple due to the crookedness of versatile beggars because eventually they all work for the up gradation of human society by the grace of god almighty Hence it is difficult for me to reach such above mentioned people and organizations as first priority is sharing knowledge and second is up gradation. That is why it is my humble request to guide me after reading the above mentioned as to how we should approach such organizations for such human cause which is living and working since 15 years in one direction only.
No doubt, this mission will remain even after the founder, I Prof.Khalid is no more. I wish many people should stand up for such a cause make such institutions for all learners. That is why GIFT policies are unchangeable by any means but this means that GIFT has set its example and opened the doors to develop such institutions in the near future.
By the grace of God Almighty GIFT is a powerful institution for human kind along with designing which saves time, money and builds up the confidence of every individual learner by thumbing authority.
GIFT has a time bound program and is the best in the world in short term and part time courses. To understand the mission of GIFT and its course abstract the detail is given in the following statement below.
Email address:

All copy rights are reserved by Gandhi Institute of Fashion and Textile (GIFT, NGO),Ahmedabad.
By Khalid Ameer Rafique
Address:GIFT:Gandhi Institute of Fashion & Textile
White Cross Building, 15 patel society,
Near CII Building, Panchvati, Ahmedabad-380006